Venice: The Bridge of Sighs

Photo: Travel for Rookies

The Bridge of Sighs, designed and built in 1600 by Antonio Contino and known in Italian as Il Ponte dei Sospiri, is one of the most famous sites in Venice. It’s one of over 400 bridges and structures across the 100 canals and waterways of Venice.

“Sighs?” You ask. “Sighs for stories of romance? Sighs for its beauty? ”

Photo: Travel Is Our Drug

Not exactly. Legend has it that prisoners crossing over to the prison cells on the other side would sigh at their last look through the bridge windows at the lagoon and the island of San Giorgio.

The Bridge of Sighs is architecturally unique with its fine, white limestone and lattice-like screens covering two small windows. The bridge is totally enclosed and passes over the Rio di Palazzo. It connects the State Inquisitor's Room on the third floor of the Doge Palace to I Prigioni, the prison. The bridge was originally meant to be the passageway from the interrogation area over to the prison cells. The truth is... by the time the bridge was built the days of inquisitions and executions were over. Only small-time criminals were kept in the prison.

Photo: Lord Byron Is a Boss

In actuality, it came to be called the “Bridge of Sighs” much later after Lord Byron's 19th century reference to it in his poem Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.  "I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs, a palace and prison on each hand."

Locals say that if lovers kiss on a gondola at sunset under the Bridge Of Sighs they will be granted eternal love and bliss. Hmmm. My guess is that the fellas who book the gondola rides started that legend! In any case, the Bridge of Sighs is one of the many special places in Venice not to miss the next time you’re in that neighborhood.

(Be sure to check out the links under the photos for more info!)

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

If you are receiving this post by email and would like to read other archived posts on my blog, 
go to
http://www.acappuccinominute.blogspot.com/

Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve

Are you fortunate enough to be visiting Sicily some time soon? Do you enjoy hiking and beautiful scenery? Then, you absolutely MUST get yourself over to Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve on the northwest coast! It is one of the most beautiful places in western Sicily.

Lo Zingaro is in the shadow of Mount Cófano about an hour’s drive from Palermo. This beautiful nature reserve of over 1000 square miles stretches along the Sicilian coast for 7km (almost 4.5 miles) between the small villages of Scopello and San Vito Lo Capo with several grottos along the rocky coast. There are various trails throughout the reserve; the most popular runs the entire length of the reserve along the coast. Hiking this trail will take you around five hours round trip and you'll surely stop for some photos along the way.

The park offers breathtaking views, mini beaches, nature hikes, and well-maintained trails. Sheer drops meet a clear blue sea with adjacent mountainsides rising up as high as 3,200 feet. It is one of the few protected natural grasslands in Sicily. Dwarf palms and other shrubs line most of the trails. If you’re there in spring, you’ll find the grass of the slopes dotted with thousands of colorful wild flowers.

Lo Zingaro is home to numerous species of flora and fauna. Thanks to the humid microclimate, the park boasts about 650 species of plants, trees and shrubs with paths lined by dwarf palms, orchids, crocuses, colorful wild flowers and a rare type of sea lavender. Birds of land and sea abound as well as animals like weasels, hedgehogs, foxes, and lizards.

Beautiful beaches? Lo Zingaro has them! The park’s coast is dotted with pristine, pebbly beaches tucked away in remote coves, some only reachable by water. The water at the beaches is transparent turquoise and is a pretty site to see. 

Covered Picnic Ramadas with a Delightful View

For centuries, small communities of farmers who grew wheat and kept livestock inhabited what is now Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve. Interestingly, smugglers also used the hidden grottos of the area as storage space for their goods. In 1981, Lo Zingaro was established as Sicily’s first protected nature reserve.  Today, there are few buildings and no paved roads in the park. Not too far from the Scopello entrance, there’s a small museum and covered picnic ramadas.

From the entry, a walk of about half an hour will take you to first beach. 

Walking through the tunnel toward the beach you’ll see a traditional Sicilian donkey cart.

If you plan a visit to Lo Zingaro, figure on getting there as early in the day as possible. The park shuts down at the entrance if it gets too busy, especially in summer. Wear a hat and sturdy shoes, bring sunscreen and have lots of drinking water. Note, there are no services inside the park.

Scopello's Ancient Tunnery

There are two entrances to Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve, the most popular is the Scopello entrance. There you’ll find an information center and pretty good parking. A less busy but farther away entrance is close to the town of San Vito Lo Capo. The entry fee to Lo Zingaro is a reasonable 5euros.

Click here for Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve's official site.

Trust me, there’s LOTS to see and do in Sicily. If, however, you’d like one day to get away from it all to enjoy nature Sicilian style, AND you happen to be at that end of the island, then Lo Zingaro is the place to go.

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

If you are receiving this post by email and would like to read other archived posts on my blog, 
go to
http://www.acappuccinominute.blogspot.com/

Octopus Salad: Insalata di Polpo

As a child, I remember my Sicilian Uncle John often making octopus salad. He was a fisherman from the old country and octopus salad was said to be one of his specialties. But…as a child, I wanted no part of that traditional “delicacy” of thick, rubbery looking tentacles covered with suction cups.

Ristorante Torre di Angelucco, Martina Franca

On our last trip to Italy, I finally decided to put on my big girl panties and taste octopus salad – the hubby and I both did. I can tell you, we became instant fans. It’s absolutely scrumptious! In fact, we ordered it at every meal just to compare.

Osteria del Porto, Savelletri

I didn’t find the texture chewy at all. It was a tender taste of the sea with not much flavor of its own – maybe a little bit sweet. Instead, it was more apt to take on the flavor of its marinade or seasoning. In some octopus salads, the octopus is just marinated and seasoned while some also include fresh vegetables. I’ll have to admit – looking at the tentacles and suction cups was a little intimidating at first, but I got over it quickly once I decided I liked the dish, no matter how it was made.

Much of Italy abuts the sea, so finding octopus salad is pretty easy. Octopus salad, however, is not unique to Italy. Most countries neighboring the sea have various versions of the dish -  Mexico, Greece, Spain, Portugal, Korea, etc. 

The octopus has no boney skeletal system, so Mother Nature has made its connective tissue tougher to support its muscles. This also makes the octopus a tougher meat to chew, so tenderizing is essential.  I found some methods used for tenderizing are brining, marinating, and boiling. I even have heard that the Italian fishermen actually beat the octopus on the stone wharfs to tenderize the meat. I’ve read that freezing also tenderizes the meat, so starting with a supermarket purchased frozen octopus may be the way to go. That’s especially helpful to know when you live in an area far from the sea.

Here are a few octopus salad recipes, if you dare to try. Just click on the links.

From: Italian Food Forever

From: Napoli Restaurant Alert

From:  All Things Sicilian and More

Unfortunately, my Uncle John is no longer with us or I would have shared his recipe too.

Never tasted octopus salad at home or abroad? Be daring! Put on your own big girl panties (or big boy boxers) and give it a try. I’ll bet you’ll be sold on it too!

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

If you are receiving this post by email and would like to read other archived posts on my blog, 
go to
http://www.acappuccinominute.blogspot.com/

Norcia: The Place for Sausage!

Imagine a town known for its...sausages! You might think it would be located in Germany where brats rule, but no. It’s Norcia (pronounced Nor-cha), Italy in the province of Perugia. This small town with a population of under 5,000 is located in southeastern Umbria in a wide plain at adjacent to the Sibillini Mountain range. I remember entering the historic section of Norcia through ancient walls dating back to the 14^th century. One thing I noticed immediately is that historic Norcia is almost flat…a rarity in Umbrian towns that are known for being hilly.

Beyond those ancient walls, it’s all about food... artisan food. When you visit, expect to see tempting cheeses, truffles, lentils, beans, but especially be ready to see-smell-taste pork products...fresh sausage, dry sausage, prosciuttos, hams, and salamis.

Norcia is in a lovely area welcoming hikers for its clean air and beautiful scenery. It also has the reputation of being the pork capital of Italy!

The butchers in Norcia are famous for being the best in Italy. These types of pork products have been named after Norcia. In Italian, a store selling pork products is called a norcineria.

In a norcineria, you'll also find Coglioni di Mulo (mule balls)! Fear not! That's not what they really are. These sausages were given this name because of their resemblance to mule testicles. They're actually made from lean pork meat with lard in the center.

Hunting is big around Norcia, especially for wild boar (cinghiale). For this reason, Norcia's sausages and hams are made from mostly wild boar and pork.

While walking around town, we came upon a hunter's car and in the back was one unfortunate cinghiale ready for butchering.

Each norcineria uses its own recipe for sausage, some passed down from generation to generation. Store owners will help you select the type and flavor sausage you'll like best.

                 (photo credit: R.Snow)                                                                                    

Many of the norcinerias decorate their shops with stuffed baby cinghiale (wild boar). If you’re like me, seeing the stuffed baby cinghiales will sadden you. Eating the delicious pork products, however, will make your stomach smile.

Taste the various sausages. See how they differ. Decide which you like best.  I assure you, you'll end up leaving Norcia with a grocery bag full of sausage for savoring with a glass of Italian wine as you enjoy an Italian sunset. Pick up a few local cheeses and a loaf of bread while you're at it. What a perfect end to a perfect day in Umbria.

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

If you are receiving this post by email and would like to read other archived posts on my blog, 
go to
http://www.acappuccinominute.blogspot.com/

Gatti Italiani: Italian Cats!

Cat at the Teatro Greco in Taormina

Being feline fanciers, Charlie and I always notice stray cats on our Italian excursions. From the top of the Italian boot to the bottom and all around Sicily too, we've never met a cat we didn't like. They all speak Italian, really, and have the same relaxed demeanor as their human counterparts.

Roman Forum Cat

Rome is known for its cat sanctuary, Torre Argentina, at the Forum. Sheltered among the old temple ruins live more than 250 cats. Volunteers donate time seven days a week for their care. Visitors and donations are welcome. Be sure to notice the cats at the Forum on your next trip to Rome.

If you're a feline fancier too, you'll enjoy this gallery of some of the "gatti" we've met on our trips to Italy.

Tuscan Cat

Sicilian Cats

 

Venetian Cat

Umbrian Cat

Umbrian Cat

                                                                                             Piedmont Cat

Venetian Cats

Tuscan Kittens

                                                                     Sicilian Cat

Tuscan Cat

Sicilian Cat

                                                            Puglian Cat

I can assure you, there were many times we were tempted to take one or two "gatti" home with us, but we resisted. 

Regulations for bringing animals back into the U.S. make that thought prohibitive. Still, we enjoyed their company for a little while, and I had the chance to practice my Italian with some native speakers. "Miao!" ("Meow" as spoken by Italian cats.)

Ciao!

- Nina Spitzer

If you are receiving this post by email and would like to read other archived posts on my blog, 

go to

http://www.acappuccinominute.blogspot.com/

David: What a guy!

What a gorgeous, hunk-a-man!

Yes. What a gorgeous, hunk-a-man! Ordinarily, I'd be referring to my hubby, but today it's Michelangelo's "David" I speak of. At 14 feet tall and over 12,000 pounds, he's as magnificent today as the day he was born in 1504. 

Originally, Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarotti Simoni (aka Michelangelo) was commissioned to create the statue for the Duomo, the Cathedral of Florence. The original plan was for it to be one of a series of statues for display in niches 262 feet above ground. Michelangelo was asked to use an enormous piece of marble rejected for its imperfections by two other sculptors over 25 years before. No problem. The 29 year old Michelangelo agreed to take on the challenge and chiseled away at it for four years.

What emerged from that imperfect piece of stone was... David.

"David" is the young David of the David and Goliath Bible story. All other sculptors before Michelangelo had always sculpted him in a position of victory after the battle with Goliath. Michelangelo's version instead shows David before battle, leaning against a tree stump and holding his slingshot over his shoulder. His eyes are fixed in concentration over the ensuing battle. David's expression, bulging veins, muscular abs, and tight thigh muscles show him lifelike (despite his size) in all his grandeur.

Replica of David in the Piazza della Signoria

The end result of Michelangelo's "David" was perfection...perhaps too much prefection. Upon its completion, the Vestry Board that had originally commissioned the work decided David was too perfect, and perhaps too heavy, to be displayed so high above the city. So the decision was to instead display David in the courtyard of the Piazza della Signoria, the political heart of Florence. There, he became a symbol of the defense of liberties embodied by the Republic of Florence. Soon after, the tree stump David leaned against his slingshot were gilded. The gold enhancement was beautiful, but unfortunately was eventually worn away by weather and time.

In order to protect David against further weather damage, he was moved to the Accademia in Florence (1873) and replaced by a replica in the Piazza della Signoria. There, in the Accademia, David can be enjoyed by visitors from as nearby as only a few feet away. Seeing David up close is a breathtaking experience. You'll find yourself circling him more than  once, marveling at how Michelangelo helped this awesome and perfect David emerge from a huge, imperfect piece of marble.

Take notice of his disproportionate hands and head. It's believed these over-sized exaggerations of proportion were intentional by Michelangelo since David was originally meant for display at a height where the important parts needed emphasis.

Are you planning a visit to Florence, Italy some time soon? Be sure to add the Accademia onto your list of things to do. When you visit David,  I know you, too, will agree that he is one gorgeous hunk-a-man! 

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

If you are receiving this post by email and would like to read other archived posts on my blog, 
go to
http://www.acappuccinominute.blogspot.com/