Poggioreale: A Sicilian Ghost Town

What is it that’s so fascinating about a ghost town? The ghosts, of course! Knowing people just like you walked where you are walking and lived their lives where you are standing. Perhaps a ghost or two are watching as you gaze around wondering, what was it like back then?

The 18^th century town of Poggioreale was not yet a ghost town on January 14th, 1968. Then, on January 15th, while its residents enjoyed a family dinner together at day's end, the wind blew, the ground shook and an earthquake changed their lives forever. Residents ran outside to save themselves as buildings crumbled around them. Those who survived were devastated and those who died left behind family and friends who would hold the memory of that nightmare in their minds for the rest of their lives.

The 6.5 earthquake hit 14 towns in the Belice Valley area and left 370 people dead and 70,000 homeless. Most of the victims were women, children and the elderly as the young people had emigrated in search of work. Poggioreale, together with the towns of Gibellina, Salaparuta, and Montevago, was so badly destroyed, they had to be rebuilt kilometers away. Homeless residents lived in nearby shacks for over ten years while the new towns were being built.

The ruins of Poggioreale from a distance

On a recent trip to Italy my husband and I visited Poggioreale. This ghost town is way off the beaten path requiring a drive through rolling green hills of beautiful Italian countryside. 

At a turn in the road, we came face to face with the local herd of sheep making its way home; its shepherd and his dogs following close behind. We stopped, let them pass, and then continued up the damaged, narrow road until it diverted at an impassable spot still damaged from the earthquake.

Upon reaching the entry to the town, we were met by a large, tall gate closing off the town to looters. Darned! After our anticipation and long drive, seeing the gate was a huge letdown. The gate, however, was attached on each side to a 6-foot wall, one of which was against a sloped embankment. Ahhh-solution! Climb the wall! Not being looters, the only thing we’d planned on taking from Poggioreale was photos. So we did, indeed, climb the wall to get inside.

Walking the streets of Poggioreale was truly eerie. Buildings and roads are all in a state of ruin. Once a busy little town, Mother Nature is now the only one at work sending trees and shrubbery into places that once were homes. 

Silence prevails. The main piazza in the center of town, once bustling with people, mules, cars and daily life, is now deserted. The sounds of animals, people working, and children playing have been replaced with only the squawking of birds circling overhead.

The ghosts who were peering around broken doorways and windows neither said a word nor made a sound while we explored and took our photos. They just watched and wondered when the intruders would go away and leave them in peace with their solitude, memories and eternal love for this once beautiful little town. With respect for them, we silently and quickly took our photos of Poggioreale, then climbed back over the wall and continued on our way.

For a video of the Poggioreale ruins ("Saving Poggioreale"), click HERE.

Ciao!

- Nina Spitzer

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Trulli of Apulia (Puglia)

Trulli are cone-shaped structures found only in the Apulia (Puglia) area of Italy.

Trulli are a common sight when driving around the Apulia (Puglia) region of Italy. 

(Singular: trullo)

The traditional stone buildings with their conical roofs are unique to the area and fascinating to the eye. Often, religious symbols were whitewashed onto the roof. Trulli are sprinkled all over the Apulian hillsides, but are especially prominent in the town of Alberobello which is known for its trulli communities.

A street in the center of town in Alberobello

The trulli of the past were constructed as temporary stone structures at the edge of a farmer's property. They were meant to take up minimal space with crops planted right up to the front door. The intent was for the farmer to optimize use of the land. A trullo was typically used as a storehouse for animals, equipment and crops, or as a permanent dwelling convenient to the fields.

The soil of Puglia is dense with stones, making it a readily available building material for the many stone walls dividing properties, as well as for the construction of trulli buildings.

There are a variety of theories behind the history of the conical, stone design of the structures. A popular one is that dry construction of the trullo (stone without mortar) made it easy for the Puglian people to quickly dismantle the building when the inspectors came by. This helped avoid high taxes.

A trullo can be of either one-coned roof or many. Multiple coned trulli are connected inside with each room serving a different purpose (kitchen, bedrooms, living area). Alcoves can provide additional space for children or storage. The stone walls of a trullo are thick, from 2 feet to as many as 8 feet. The thickness of the walls keeps a trullo cool in summer, but difficult to heat in winter.

Recently, my husband and I rented a vacation trullo in the Apulian town of Martina Franca. It was a renovated structure with the modern comforts of a stove, heat, and a flat screen TV.

Here's a look at the conical roof from the inside. Windows are small and few, making the interior of a trullo a bit dark.

Staying in a trullo was very basic lodging. I'll have to admit, however, it was "trulli" an interesting experience (pun intended) and totally different lodging than in any other region of Italy.

Ciao!

- Nina Spitzer

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Windmills in Italy?

Windmills in Sicily???

When we think of windmills, we immediately think of the Netherlands. But, did you know that Sicily has its windmills too?

These Dutch-style windmills pump water and grind salt. The saltpans are in the shallow lagoons of Lo Stagnone in Marsala and on the coastline of the towns of Paceco and Trapani along what is known as "The Salt Road." If you're in the area, a stop is well worth it and visit the Salt Museum too.

Some of Europe's oldest salt marshes are in Sicily. Though they do not exist in the numbers of the past, you can still find some of these ancient windmills in operation today. Salt extraction, a technology in Sicily dating back to the Greeks and Romans was a part of Trapani's past and is still used today as a source for obtaining the sea salt preferred by many chefs. 

It is said that the trace elements in the Sicilian salt give it some of its best flavor. The cooking salt from this area in Sicily is sold in Italian specialty shops but doesn't stay on shelves long. Its purity, quality, and unique flavor make it extremely popular with chefs and foodies and so it flies off the shelves quickly.

For more information on the Sicilian saltpans and windmills click  here and here.

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

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Trevi Fountain: Toss in a Coin!

The Trevi Fountain (also known as the Fountain of Trevi) is on everyone's "Must See" list when visiting Rome. They say, toss one coin into the fountain with your right hand and you'll be sure to return to Rome. Similarly, in the late 19th century, people believed that a sip of the fountain's water accompanied by a coin thrown into the fountain ensured not just a speedy but a safe return to Rome. Another legend is that if you throw in not one, but three coins: the first guarantees your return to Rome, the second leads to new romance, and the third will lead to marriage! It's this legend that inspired the 1954 film "Three Coins in a Fountain."

BUT... Don't rush to don your scuba gear and get rich. The city of Rome collects the coins on a daily basis to finance a special supermarket serving the poor of the city through an organization called Caritas. It's estimated that the fountain's coins generate 3000 euros a day!

Trevi is the largest Baroque fountain in Rome and one of the most famous in the world as well. It was originally built as a display, an idea started by the early Renaissance popes to have elaborately decorated fountains at the end of ancient Roman acqueducts. In the middle ages the fountain was purely functional and offered the only supply of pure water to Rome. Residents of the city would fill their buckets and take water home.The Trevi Fountain has been through many designs, but the current travertine and marble design with the main statue being of "Ocean's Triumph" (Greek Sea God Oceanus) was officially completed and inaugurated on May 22, 1762.

The Fountain of Trevi was the set for the famous Fellini move "La Dolce Vita" (1960) where Swedish bombshell Anita Ekberg romps around in the fountain at night calling, "Marcello, come here. Hurry up!" and he jumps in too. It's a great scene! Check it out.  Unfortunately, you can't run out to Rome today and do your own romping through the fountain. It's currently being restored and won't be viewable again until approximately fall of 2015. Click here for more info on the fountain.

Charlie and Nina, Rome, 2007

Is it the possibility of returning to Rome that is the fountain's allure? If it is, then it sure worked for us on our first trip, well sorta. Stand with your back to the fountain and toss the coin over your left shoulder. Our five returns were not all to Rome but to other parts of Italy, as well. Hmmm...Maybe that's because we threw the coin over our right shoulder instead. Ya gotta follow directions! Still, I'm not complaining. All five trips to Italy were well worth that couple of euros we tossed into the fountain.

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

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Castelluccio di Norcia: Lentils

When I was growing up, a pot of lentil soup brewing on the stove was a common sight in my mother's Italian kitchen. Now, it’s my husband who is the talent in our kitchen brewing up the lentil soup.  I have to admit, I'd never given much thought to those little brown lentil discs and where they come from. Well, on one of our Italy trips, I became acquainted with, Castelluccio di Norcia, an Italian Town in the province of Umbria whose claim to fame is – Lentils.

The Umbrian town of Castelucci di Norcia is about a 30-minute drive from its mother town of Norcia and a beautiful drive through the Parco Nazionale di Monte Sibillini.  Castelluccio is easy to see in the distance atop a hill in the center of a plateau. It pops out of the landscape like a spot of acne on a teenager's face. The town caps the top of the hill at an altitude of 4,764 feet. A small cluster of ancient buildings make up the little town. Castelluccio dates from the 13th century or slightly earlier, but was also settled by the Romans.

Castelluccio di Norcia is quaint and small with a population of under 200. It's a quiet town of narrow winding streets, each with its own charm.

Both the climate of the area and a cultivation technique used through the centuries have contributed to a variety of lentils unique to Castellucio di Norcia. The thin skin and soft consistency of the lentils allow them to be cooked without first soaking. These small Umbrian lentils are round and flat, varying in color between dark green, pale yellow and light brown and can be speckled or striped.

The lentils are harvested in July. Women of the town shake them in a sieve to separate the lentils from the chaff.

Visit Castelluccio di Norcia between late May and early July for the spectacle of nature that the locals call "The Fiorita" or "The Fioritura" (The Flowering) of Castelluccio di Norcia. This is when the area's plateau burst with color as the flowers bloom with shades ranging from yellow ocher to red, from violet to white. Flowering lentils, gentianella, poppies, narcissuses, violets, asphodels, Eugeniae violet, clovers, oxalis and many more create a tapestry of flowers. The "Feast of the Fiorita" (flowering) takes places yearly on the third and on the last Sunday of June.

Driving to Castelluccio di Norcia will take some time, but the road through the Parco Nazionale di Monte Sibillini offers amazing views and the quaintness of the town all make it worth it.  While there, be sure to buy some of their lentils and...a bowl of lentil soup in a local restaurant is a must!

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

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Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini

Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini is a park with a view... and, what a view!

Back in 2012, we were on our way to visit yet another remote Italian town when we came upon Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini in the Sibillini mountain range. It was gorgeous and a good reason to stomp on the brakes and check it out.

 The area was established as a national park in 1993 in an aim to safeguard the environment. The park encompasses 172,973 acres of rolling hills spreading across the regions of both Umbria and Marche with views as far as the eye can see. It’s breathtaking. 

It’s an area popular with cyclers, paragliders, hikers, and tourists looking for a good excuse to stop and enjoy the scenery. We just happened to have Italian snacks and wine with us, which made for a great spur of the moment picnic.

Evidently, the area was home to those in the past who appreciated its remote magical beauty and panoramic vistas. We found a great fixer-upper that we considered, but hubby nixed the idea - Home Depot was just too far away for the many remodeling needs we would have.

Strolling around Sibillini Park feels as if you are in a heavenly place. Even signs in the sky let you know it's a place that's been touched by God. For us, it started out as just another day of driving around the Italian countryside, but ended up being a beautiful day to remember...and share.

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

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Ribbons & Bows & Babies

Ribbons and bows sometimes have a way of speaking with their silence. So is the case in Italy where a ribbon, bow, or sash on a main entry door quietly announces to the local community an event of significance has occurred within.

A sighting of a pink or blue ribbon shouts out the arrival of a new life into the household. It is a "fiocco nascita," or a ribbon of birth. Pink for girls expresses their femininity. Blue for boys signifies their heavenly importance and hence the blue of the sky.

In the past, the hanging the ribbon on the door was a superstition of protection for the baby, especially boys since they were of more importance. Nowadays, it's a way to celebrate and announce to the world the joy of a new arrival.

The fiocco nascita can be accompanied with the child's name and is sometimes elaborately decorated with a sewn and embroidered decoration like a heart, angel, or stuffed animal. They can be handmade by the mother, relative, or friend - or purchased at a store.

Whatever way it's done, fiocchi nascita are a fun way of shouting out to the world "Hey, we've got a new kid at our house!"

We've just recently celebrated the arrival of our new grandson, Rhys Michael! Welcome to the world, sweetheart! Hmmm...I wonder if grandparaents can hang one on their door too! 

Ciao!

- Nina Spitzer

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