Cappuccino? No-No!

'Planning an Italian vacation?

Do not...absolutely do NOT, ask for a cappuccino after 11am when you're there. Italians are passionate about a lot of things, soccer-wine-fashion-love, but they are especially passionate about how they drink their coffee. Rules of the road? There are none. Stoplights, stop signs, and yielding are only suggestions and for tourists, BUT break the rules of coffee - never!

Photo Credit: A. Mitchell

I learned this lesson abruptly on my first trip to Italy. We'd had dinner at a wonderful Riomaggiore restaurant, but I'd passed on an after dinner coffee. About half an hour later, while strolling around town, the delayed urge for coffee struck. I turned into a nearby bar, where one goes for coffee in Italy, and walked up to the counter with my order. It was about 10pm.

"A cappuccino, please," I said to the handsome young man behind the counter in my best Italian.  With that, he began ranting and raving at me like I'd just smacked him in the face. The volume of his voice elevated above normal and his hands started flying in the air.

"What's wrong with you Americans? One doesn't drink cappuccino at this hour! Don't you know it's bad for you? Bad for your stomach? What, are you crazy?"

At this point, he had my attention as well as that of everyone else at the bar.

When finally he stopped ranting, I smiled and asked, "So then tell me what I should be drinking," and waited for his reply.

"Caffé. Un caffé!" He repeated even louder. I must have looked like a deer in the headlights because he then said, "Espresso. Only espresso," probably figuring this idiot tourist needed further clarification. Mind you, Italians don't call it "espresso." He'd only used that term for my benefit.

Okay. I'm an open minded traveler, so I figured, what the heck. "Then, that's what I'll have, un caffé per favore."

Without another word, he turned to the large, chrome machine and went to work. A few minutes later, a small white porcelain cup and saucer with a tiny spoon and two packets of sugar appeared in front of me. I slid the two euros over to him and picked up my coffee. "Grazie."

I stirred in the sugar and brought the cup to my lips. Heaven! Absolute, smooth, black satin Heaven. I'd become an immediate fan and had learned an abrupt lesson as well... Never-never ask for cappuccino after eleven in the morning when in Italy - or any coffee with milk for that matter.

In Italy, cappuccino is considered a breakfast drink and it is frowned upon if requested after 11 am. An even worse crime would be asking for a cappuccino after lunch or dinner. Why? It's believed to disturb the digestive process and is also a social taboo. (I sure found that out!)

So, if you're a coffee drinker visiting Italy, keep  this in mind..."Dorothy, you're not in Starbuck's anymore." Brush up on the laws of the land when it comes to coffee. It will save you possible embarrassment and maybe ridicule too. Here are a few things to remember:

* A "bar" is where you go for coffee in Italy.  It's equivalent to our coffee shop.

* We call it "espresso;" they call it "caffé". It's the same thing, so ask for "un caffé" when in Italy.
* Do not ask for a coffee to go. Coffee isn't going anywhere in a paper cup in Italy. Slow down and enjoy the coffee, enjoy the ceramic cup and enjoy the experience.

* Absolutely no - no - NO coffee with dairy after 11 am. (I know - You've got this by now.)
* Only sit at a table if you're willing to pay 2-3 times more for your coffee. It is customary for Italians to stand at the bar's counter and toss down their coffee in two or three gulps. It's usually us tourists who sit at tables.

* Sometimes you pay before you get your coffee, sometimes you pay after you've finished. Each bar is different, so watch what others do.

* Most bars will serve a small glass of water with your caffé, or you can ask for one. This is typically drunk before the coffee to cleanse the palate.

Enjoying a cappuccino in Martina Franca, Italy and yes, it was before 11am.

A Helpful Little Italian Coffee Glossary

Un Caffé: What we call "espresso," but it's short, thick and a creamy texture. 

Un Caffé Doppio: The same as un caffé, but twice the amount. Italians seldom order it this way.

Un Caffé macchiato: Espresso with a small drop of milk on top to barely "stain" the coffee. Don't expect syrupy caramel flavoring.

Un Cappuccino: Like our American cappuccino, but perhaps smaller and usually far more delicious.

Un Caffé Americano: A watered down espresso for the benefit of American tourists. It may come with a sneer from the server.

Latte: This is the Italian word for milk. Ask for a latte and you'll receive only a warm glass of milk.

Un Caffé Latte (or Latte macchiato): This is what we call a "latte," but must be ordered attached to the word "caffé" so as not to receive just milk.
Acqua Gassata: Carbonated water, for drinking pre-coffee.
Acqua Naturale: Non-carbonated water, for drinking pre-coffee.

That's the end of your mini-lesson on drinking coffee in Italy. Now, you're all set for your Italian vacation. Remember, however, that there will be a test! When? The test is when you stand in front of the server and place your order. Good luck!

Ciao!

- Nina Spitzer

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