Chianti Classico: A Black Rooster

Is this a logo you recognize? If so, you are a wine lover, especially a Chianti Classico wine lover. 

This black rooster emblem is a proud designation representing the strict government regulations that oversee every step of Chianti Classico wine production. It guarantees the wine is, indeed, a Chianti Classico that has adhered to all the stringent rules of production of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium…and they are many. Here are a few: 

According to the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium, Chianti Classico must be comprised of at minimum:

-       80% native Sangiovese grapes

-       20% other native red grapes.

The grapes must also come from the designated Chianti Classico zone. The first classico area was marked out in 1716 by Grand Duke Cosimo III de Medici. The area was greatly enlarged in 1932 and legally recognized in 1966.

Chianti Classico zone

The consortium regulates start to finish production with standards that must be followed with specifications set for color, odor, flavor, sugar, alcohol and aging. Grape cultivation and volume of production are regulated. In addition, the wine must pass a test and tasting to comply and wear the black rooster seal.

When buying Chianti Classico wine, you’ll find this logo on a numbered paper seal at the neck of the bottle. A bottle with the black rooster (gallo nero) seal assures you are selecting the best the region has to offer.

 But why a black rooster?

          According to legend...in the 13th century, Florence and Siena came up with a creative way to resolve a border dispute. It was decided that each city would send out its best horseman at the same time and they would travel toward each other. Where they met would determine where the border would be drawn. The crow of a rooster in each city  would mark the start of the competition. The horseman from Siena chose a white rooster and fed him well the night before figuring a well-fed rooster would have a stronger crow to start off the race. The Florentine horseman, instead, chose a black rooster and didn’t feed it on the theory that a hungry rooster would crow earlier. The Florentine horseman was right! The black rooster was up well before dawn crowing loudly in demand of food.  This sent the Florentine horseman on his way much earlier, allowing him to claim practically all of Chianti for Florence. 

          It is believed that this legend established the black rooster as symbol of Chianti up to this day. In 1384, the black rooster was branded as the emblem for the League of Chianti. This became the proud brand for the high quality Chianti Classico.

Visiting Tuscany?

          You may want to pay special attention to visiting towns within the Chianti Classico zone for some superb wine tasting. Just be sure, however, to make reservations ahead of time.

Wine tasting in the Chianti Classico zone

Note > When purchasing Chianti wine, you are choosing from these three types:

Chianti Classico – (black rooster logo) Follows the highest of standards of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium, but must also be aged a minimum of 12 months in oak barrels, with a minimum alcohol content of 12%

Chianti Classico Riserva – (black rooster logo) Follows the highest of standards of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium, but must also be aged a minimum of 2 years in oak barrels and at least 3 months in bottles, with a minimum alcohol content of 12.5%

Chianti – (no black rooster logo) Standard Chianti wine not needing to adhere to Chianti Classico Wine Consortium regulations, with a minimum alcohol content of 11.5%

When traveling around the Chianti Classico zone, it's common to see art and sculpture of the black rooster, a proud symbol of the region. It's also a sign that you are in the right place for some darned good Italian wine!

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

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Basilica di Santa Croce: “Temple of the Italian Glories”

Italy has countless amazing cathedrals and churches, but the one that most intrigues me is the Basilica di Santa Croce (Basilica of the Holy Cross) in Florence. Why? Because it’s the final resting place and memorial to some of the biggest names in Italian history. For this reason, it has been given the nickname of “Temple of the Italian Glories.”

The basilica houses both tombs and cenotaphs, "empty tombs" or monuments erected in honor of those whose remains are elsewhere. Some of the most famous of these found in the perimeters of the basilica are Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Rossini, Galileo, Dante, Marconi and Fermi. 

In addition, the floor of the basilica is paved with 276 tombstones of notable and wealthy Italians and clergy, so watch where you step. (Tombs/Cenotaphs in the Basilica di Santa Croce.)

Michelangelo’s tomb was designed by the artist and biographer Giorgio Vasari in 1570 and executed with the work of various artists. It’s adorned by three grieving statues representing Michelangelo’s most salient talents: On the left “Sculpture” by Cioli, in the center “Painting” by Lorenzi, and on the right “Architecture” by Bandini. The bust of Michelangelo on the casket is by Lorenzi. The fresco above the casket is of the Deposition from the Cross by Naldini. The great master’s tomb is so beautiful that it served as a model for the others that came after.

Galileo’s tomb is in the Baroque style and shows a bust of Galileo flanked by figures representing “Geometry” and “Astronomy.” Galileo’s student, Vincenzo Viviani, so much admired his mentor that he requested to be buried with Galileo upon his death. His wish was granted, so Galileo’s tomb also includes Viviani’s remains. A third corpse also resides in the tomb and is believed to be the remains of Galileo’s daughter, Maria Celeste. Needless to say, the casket is a bit crowded inside.

The tomb of Italy’s most illustrious poet, Dante Alighieri, is actually a cenotaph since his remains are interred elsewhere. The cenotaph is a memorial to this man known as “The Supreme Poet.” 

Due to his exile from Florence for political reasons, Dante’s remains are in a small mausoleum in the coastal town of Ravenna, Italy. Florence eventually regretted having exiled Dante and requested his remains be returned to Florence, his birthplace. The custodians of Dante’s body in Ravenna refused.

The Basilica di Santa Croce is the largest Franciscan church in the world and houses some of Florence’s most beautiful works of art. The work of greats such as Giotto, Donatello, Brunelleschi, Gaddi and Da Maiano are only a few and include not only the basilica’s structure, but also frescoes, paintings and statues... and of course, the beautiful tombs and cenotaphs within.

The history of the basilica and the stories behind the tombs and cenotaphs would take far more than a mere cappuccino minute. This has been just a taste – a sip – a tease of information about this marvelous basilica and what it holds inside. Click HERE for more information – OR – better yet, hop on a plane and visit the Basilica di Santa Croce for yourself. Just be sure to allow plenty of time to enjoy and explore every bit of the treasures within.

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

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Mt. Etna: Visiting a Volcano

What's it like standing atop one of the most active volcanoes in the world? Amazing - absolutely amazing!

Visiting Mt. Etna was tops on our list of things to do during our May 2015 trip to Sicily. After all, hiking around a crater of an active volcano isn't something one can do every day. Right? So, just before leaving Sicily for home, we spent a day visiting "Montibello," or "Beautiful Mountain," the nickname given Etna by Italians.

Mt. Etna stands almost 11,000 feet above the city of Catania on the eastern coast of Sicily. The volcano has four volcanic openings or ‘summit craters’ – two in the center, one in the northeast and another in the southeastern side. About one quarter of the population of Sicily lives on its slopes. Do they live in fear? Heck no. Instead, they take advantage of its mineral rich and fertile soil with farms, orchards and vineyards. Yes - wine... truly excellent wine!

We started out with a 15 minute ride on the Funivia, a cable car that climbs up the south side of the volcano to the 8,215 feet level.

From there, we switched over to a multi-passenger all-terrain vehicle that traverses lava beds and snow for 20 minutes up to 9,514 feet.

That's where everyone exited into a panorama of volcano, lava, snow and Sicily down below. The tour doesn't end there.

The group was then led on a breathtaking 360 degree hike  around one of Etna's craters by an experienced guide. It was about an hour's walk all the way around.

The trek is mostly single file around the crater and looking out onto snow and lava, some of which is 300,000 years old. 

Yes, those tiny dots are people in our group hiking around the crater.

.

From a distance, one can view the fumarole activity - that is the steam and gases being emitted from Etna's crevices

Mt. Etna is also a popular tourist spot for climbing, hiking, skiing and exploring its lava caves.

An interesting fact: 

Occasionally, Mount Etna  will emit smoke in the rare form of rings, though we didn't get to see this rare occurrence. 

Etna's most violent eruption was in 1669, destroying several nearby villages and the city walls of Catania. Its most recent eruption was on May 12, 2015...only two days after we arrived home. Darned! Bad timing. We missed it! Take a look at that eruption by clicking HERE.

If you're in Sicily and want to take advantage of this fantastic volcano tour, the cost is 62 euros per person (approximately $70 US) Do I recommend it? You bet! It's an experience you'll remember for a lifetime.

Mt Etna Funivia website.

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

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Cappuccino? No-No!

'Planning an Italian vacation?

Do not...absolutely do NOT, ask for a cappuccino after 11am when you're there. Italians are passionate about a lot of things, soccer-wine-fashion-love, but they are especially passionate about how they drink their coffee. Rules of the road? There are none. Stoplights, stop signs, and yielding are only suggestions and for tourists, BUT break the rules of coffee - never!

Photo Credit: A. Mitchell

I learned this lesson abruptly on my first trip to Italy. We'd had dinner at a wonderful Riomaggiore restaurant, but I'd passed on an after dinner coffee. About half an hour later, while strolling around town, the delayed urge for coffee struck. I turned into a nearby bar, where one goes for coffee in Italy, and walked up to the counter with my order. It was about 10pm.

"A cappuccino, please," I said to the handsome young man behind the counter in my best Italian.  With that, he began ranting and raving at me like I'd just smacked him in the face. The volume of his voice elevated above normal and his hands started flying in the air.

"What's wrong with you Americans? One doesn't drink cappuccino at this hour! Don't you know it's bad for you? Bad for your stomach? What, are you crazy?"

At this point, he had my attention as well as that of everyone else at the bar.

When finally he stopped ranting, I smiled and asked, "So then tell me what I should be drinking," and waited for his reply.

"Caffé. Un caffé!" He repeated even louder. I must have looked like a deer in the headlights because he then said, "Espresso. Only espresso," probably figuring this idiot tourist needed further clarification. Mind you, Italians don't call it "espresso." He'd only used that term for my benefit.

Okay. I'm an open minded traveler, so I figured, what the heck. "Then, that's what I'll have, un caffé per favore."

Without another word, he turned to the large, chrome machine and went to work. A few minutes later, a small white porcelain cup and saucer with a tiny spoon and two packets of sugar appeared in front of me. I slid the two euros over to him and picked up my coffee. "Grazie."

I stirred in the sugar and brought the cup to my lips. Heaven! Absolute, smooth, black satin Heaven. I'd become an immediate fan and had learned an abrupt lesson as well... Never-never ask for cappuccino after eleven in the morning when in Italy - or any coffee with milk for that matter.

In Italy, cappuccino is considered a breakfast drink and it is frowned upon if requested after 11 am. An even worse crime would be asking for a cappuccino after lunch or dinner. Why? It's believed to disturb the digestive process and is also a social taboo. (I sure found that out!)

So, if you're a coffee drinker visiting Italy, keep  this in mind..."Dorothy, you're not in Starbuck's anymore." Brush up on the laws of the land when it comes to coffee. It will save you possible embarrassment and maybe ridicule too. Here are a few things to remember:

* A "bar" is where you go for coffee in Italy.  It's equivalent to our coffee shop.

* We call it "espresso;" they call it "caffé". It's the same thing, so ask for "un caffé" when in Italy.
* Do not ask for a coffee to go. Coffee isn't going anywhere in a paper cup in Italy. Slow down and enjoy the coffee, enjoy the ceramic cup and enjoy the experience.

* Absolutely no - no - NO coffee with dairy after 11 am. (I know - You've got this by now.)
* Only sit at a table if you're willing to pay 2-3 times more for your coffee. It is customary for Italians to stand at the bar's counter and toss down their coffee in two or three gulps. It's usually us tourists who sit at tables.

* Sometimes you pay before you get your coffee, sometimes you pay after you've finished. Each bar is different, so watch what others do.

* Most bars will serve a small glass of water with your caffé, or you can ask for one. This is typically drunk before the coffee to cleanse the palate.

Enjoying a cappuccino in Martina Franca, Italy and yes, it was before 11am.

A Helpful Little Italian Coffee Glossary

Un Caffé: What we call "espresso," but it's short, thick and a creamy texture. 

Un Caffé Doppio: The same as un caffé, but twice the amount. Italians seldom order it this way.

Un Caffé macchiato: Espresso with a small drop of milk on top to barely "stain" the coffee. Don't expect syrupy caramel flavoring.

Un Cappuccino: Like our American cappuccino, but perhaps smaller and usually far more delicious.

Un Caffé Americano: A watered down espresso for the benefit of American tourists. It may come with a sneer from the server.

Latte: This is the Italian word for milk. Ask for a latte and you'll receive only a warm glass of milk.

Un Caffé Latte (or Latte macchiato): This is what we call a "latte," but must be ordered attached to the word "caffé" so as not to receive just milk.
Acqua Gassata: Carbonated water, for drinking pre-coffee.
Acqua Naturale: Non-carbonated water, for drinking pre-coffee.

That's the end of your mini-lesson on drinking coffee in Italy. Now, you're all set for your Italian vacation. Remember, however, that there will be a test! When? The test is when you stand in front of the server and place your order. Good luck!

Ciao!

- Nina Spitzer

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Not Your Average Shopping Mall

 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Yes. It’s a shopping mall, but the minute you walk into Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, you'll believe you’ve stepped into another dimension. Your mouth drops from its grandeur. The massive roof, four stories above, is a huge mesh of curved glass and cast iron letting in light from above. Its interior streets, lined with elegant shops, are wide and crawling with visitors.

The Galleria, located in the heart of Milan, is named after Vittorio Emanuele II, the first king of the unified Kingdom of Italy. The mall’s two glass-vaulted arcades are in the shape of a plus-sign and intersect into an octagon covering the street that connects Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Scala.

The central octagonal space is a huge glass dome.

Looking up at the center dome.

As structurally amazing as this mall may be, it is not a modern structure. It’s actually one of the world’s oldest shopping malls as well as a predecessor of our modern day malls. It's hard to believe this mall is from the 19th century. It was designed in 1861 by Guiseppe Mengoni, a young architect from Bologna, and built between 1865 and 1877. On the evening before the mall’s inauguration in December of 1877, Mengoni suffered a fatal fall from a scaffold and was never able to celebrate his success.

Looking up at the roof in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is just as amazing as looking down. The floor of the galleria is elaborately decorated in mosaics of signs of the Zodiac. In addition, in the center of the Galleria, where the two arcades meet, are four coats of arms of Italy’s former kingdoms: Milan, Florence, Rome, and Turin. 

Rome’s coat of arms design is of the twin sons of the God Mars, Romulus and Remus. They are drinking from the she-wolf who raised them when they were abandoned in the woods. As the story goes, a shepherd took them home and adopted them. Romulus went on to kill his brother and proclaim himself the first king of the town, naming it after himself – Rome. 

Turin’s icon is a dancing bull. According to legend, you will have good luck if you place your right heel on the bull’s testicles and spin around three times. The bull isn't too happy about this idea since all that spinning is damaging the mosaic tiles on his private parts. Me?  I had no desire to give it a try.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is and has always been a vision of opulence with its streets lined by designer stores, art galleries, jewelry shops and elegant cafés. Somehow, McDonald’s found a way in and had been an occupant for twenty years. In 2012, however, McDonald’s was denied the renewal of its lease, no doubt because it didn’t fit the image the mall was trying to convey.

In April of 2015, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II celebrated its 150th anniversary. The celebration included a launch of guided tours along its rooftop walkways as part of a multi-million euro restoration program. Now, for the first time ever, visitors are able to stroll along two iron-and-glass-covered walkways and around the enormous glass central octagonal dome over 118 feet high.

How cool to also see the magnificent Duomo and Piazza della Scala from that vantage point high above the street crowds! This program, along with others, was created in anticipation of the 20 million visitors expected to attend Milan’s Expo from April to October. The rooftop walk is an opportunity you won’t want to miss. Click HERE for more information.

View from atop The Duomo

When you’re in Milan, Expo or not, be sure to set aside time for a stroll through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. You won’t be disappointed. If you plan on shopping while there, be sure the limit on your charge card is high: you'll need it. If you're on a budget, no fear - taking pictures is free!

               

Ciao!
- Nina Spitzer

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Poggioreale: A Sicilian Ghost Town

What is it that’s so fascinating about a ghost town? The ghosts, of course! Knowing people just like you walked where you are walking and lived their lives where you are standing. Perhaps a ghost or two are watching as you gaze around wondering, what was it like back then?

The 18^th century town of Poggioreale was not yet a ghost town on January 14th, 1968. Then, on January 15th, while its residents enjoyed a family dinner together at day's end, the wind blew, the ground shook and an earthquake changed their lives forever. Residents ran outside to save themselves as buildings crumbled around them. Those who survived were devastated and those who died left behind family and friends who would hold the memory of that nightmare in their minds for the rest of their lives.

The 6.5 earthquake hit 14 towns in the Belice Valley area and left 370 people dead and 70,000 homeless. Most of the victims were women, children and the elderly as the young people had emigrated in search of work. Poggioreale, together with the towns of Gibellina, Salaparuta, and Montevago, was so badly destroyed, they had to be rebuilt kilometers away. Homeless residents lived in nearby shacks for over ten years while the new towns were being built.

The ruins of Poggioreale from a distance

On a recent trip to Italy my husband and I visited Poggioreale. This ghost town is way off the beaten path requiring a drive through rolling green hills of beautiful Italian countryside. 

At a turn in the road, we came face to face with the local herd of sheep making its way home; its shepherd and his dogs following close behind. We stopped, let them pass, and then continued up the damaged, narrow road until it diverted at an impassable spot still damaged from the earthquake.

Upon reaching the entry to the town, we were met by a large, tall gate closing off the town to looters. Darned! After our anticipation and long drive, seeing the gate was a huge letdown. The gate, however, was attached on each side to a 6-foot wall, one of which was against a sloped embankment. Ahhh-solution! Climb the wall! Not being looters, the only thing we’d planned on taking from Poggioreale was photos. So we did, indeed, climb the wall to get inside.

Walking the streets of Poggioreale was truly eerie. Buildings and roads are all in a state of ruin. Once a busy little town, Mother Nature is now the only one at work sending trees and shrubbery into places that once were homes. 

Silence prevails. The main piazza in the center of town, once bustling with people, mules, cars and daily life, is now deserted. The sounds of animals, people working, and children playing have been replaced with only the squawking of birds circling overhead.

The ghosts who were peering around broken doorways and windows neither said a word nor made a sound while we explored and took our photos. They just watched and wondered when the intruders would go away and leave them in peace with their solitude, memories and eternal love for this once beautiful little town. With respect for them, we silently and quickly took our photos of Poggioreale, then climbed back over the wall and continued on our way.

For a video of the Poggioreale ruins ("Saving Poggioreale"), click HERE.

Ciao!

- Nina Spitzer

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